Conservatories and Sunrooms are without doubt the ideal methods of adding "light and space to your home". That said "glass enclosures" of this type are not fully complete without some form of sun shading or blinds. In this section we introduce you to some of the alternatives available. Conservatory blinds help you control heat and glare, so that you can enjoy the extra space your conservatory gives you all year round.

Why have Conservatory Sun blinds?

Types of Blinds / Shading

Pleated Conservatory Blinds are probably the most popular alternative for Roof and Window Blinds today. They are available in many different colours / patterns and are easy to maintain. They can also be "automated" if you like the idea of "remotely" operating the blinds. Pleated blinds can also have special SOLAR finishes for even better performance. 

Roman Conservatory Blinds which are usually made with "Original French Pinoleum" are arguably the most traditional blinds alternative. Composed of thin strips of woven wood, Pinoleum has been manufactured in France for over 100 years. Its style compliments the traditional conservatory furniture materials of Rattan and Wicker. Roman Blinds can also be "automated" if you like the idea of "remotely" operating the blinds. 

Roller Conservatory Blinds can be produced in many different fabrics but the most popular for Conservatory Blinds feature special SOLAR reflective aluminium backing. The theory is that the sunlight literally "bounces" back of the blinds, giving really effective control over temperature and glare. Whilst aesthetically speaking these blinds are perhaps not the "best looking" alternative in most peoples minds, there is not much doubt that they do provide some of the highest degrees of performance in terms of managing heat build up and glare. 

DIY Conservatory Drapes or Shutters. As an alternative to professionally installed Sunblind's you can consider installing your own drapes using a variety of fabrics. Whilst this may not be as complete a solution as calling in the professionals they can be quite effective at softening the light and cooling the atmosphere. Another alternative is to hang soft muslin at the windows to diffuse the light. Tall timber shutters can be bought at most DIY stores and positioned free standing in order to reduce glare coming through the windows. (Allowing you to watch TV etc) Alternatively smaller shutters can be fixed to the windows externally. (Requires the services of a competent carpenter). 

What is Toeing and Heeling, and why do it anyway?

PVC-U doors are heavy, and although the dead weight is supported on the hinge side when it is opened, there is nothing on the lock side to support the weight, and without the procedure of toeing and heeling the door will drop on the handle side, sooner or later. To stop a door dropping the glass itself has to be braced diagonally corner to corner by the insertion of plastic packers slipped in the gap between the glass and frame, under the beading. On the hinge side the packers go at the bottom corner, whilst on the lock side, the packers go at the top (opposite) corner, get it?

To explain further:

To picture this in your mind more easily, look at or visualise the back of a normal wooden side gate and you will see three "ledges", that is horizontal planks - one top, one middle, and one bottom. These ledges are used for the diagonal planks of wood to sit on so as to brace across, and therefore to stop the gate dropping on the lock/handle side.

So does my door need toeing and heeling?

When a PVC-U door has "dropped" the first thing people usually notice is that the lock is not working as easily as it did, or will not lock all. The door may also possibly rub on the bottom as it is closed. Closer inspection may reveal that the mitred welds do not line through at the top and the bottom of the lock side of the door to its framework. If this is the case on any door, then the door will need bringing back to square (called "jacking" in the trade) and it will then need "toeing and heeling" to prevent it from dropping again in the future. If you suspect that your door may have dropped, then the easiest way to check is to measure corner to corner across the diagonals of the door, and verify that the measurements are near enough the same, or to within a couple of mm or so. A quarter of an inch difference in measurements is too much!

Are dropped doors a BIG problem?

The dropping of PVC-U doors is the most common complaint by customers after they have had a new PVC-U door installed, even when the rest of the installation seemed "perfect". Part of the reason why so many doors drop is laziness, and that fitters are insufficiently educated and aware of how imperative it is to get the toeing and heeling right the first time. The best way to educate fitters is for their boss to send them out in their own time to do a free of charge service call on a dropped door that they fitted! Mind you, it has often been pointed out that all fitting problems can usually be traced back to management, and that could just be true, as most fitters are animals that need to be trained (that statement - although more or less really true - definitely did NOT come from the book: "how to win friends and influence people").

Also, just maybe the management is buying in a cheaper alternative packer to the one the system supplier recommends and specifies. To put that comment in perspective, the correct Eurocell system bridge packers for example are something under 10p each, whereas flat generic packers of the same width, length, and height build, and "they do the job, don稚 they" are around say 2p each. Multiply the pence difference by the many thousands used a year by just a small outfit, and you get the idea!

How to Toe and Heel a door, properly:

OK, so we used the word properly, and this, although maybe a provocative statement, hopefully will not only instruct but also be helpful in training up any double glazing fitter, or fitters mate reading this.

1. The glazing beading must be removed first, and the double glazed sealed unit must be in its place, and resting on its plastic setting blocks, for correct drainage to work properly before beginning the procedure.

2. The opening door leaf must be raised on the lock side to the desired height, to square it up again. For one person to do this on their own; open the door slightly, place a small piece of wood on the floor to use as a fulcrum and in line with the door.

3. Next, place a plank under the lock side of the door to push down on with your foot to raise up the side of the door that has dropped. A word of warning: Some doors will rise up and come off of their hinges, and these are harder to "jack".

You should notice a gap between the sealed unit and the door, and this is where the packers are inserted to achieve your toeing and heeling correctly to brace across the glass to stop the lock side of the door dropping out of square.

A conservatory pretty obviously provides more living space, especially useful for those who wish to remain living in the same property but find they need more room, perhaps those with children on the way or growing up.

A conservatory is often a vastly cheaper alternative to moving home into a bigger property, especially when considering the costs associated with moving. These will inevitably include legal and surveying costs, stamp duty if payable, removals and decorating along with other costs you may not have thought about. For a similar outlay, you could purchase a conservatory and add value to your existing home.

There's nothing like the natural sunlight conservatories benefit from to lift your mood.

A conservatory can bring the garden into the house especially if combined with a complementary patio area.

Cozy and relaxing, especially on a wet and windy day, the soothing sound of rain on the roof can cause small children (and adults) to fall asleep easily, great if you have a small child with sleeping difficulty.

Dining in a conservatory is fun too - natural light, great views and a wonderful ambience in the evening.

But there must be a downside you might ask.

Well, a conservatory is not the cheapest of items to buy of course. However it will normally add a similar value to your property.

Obviously a conservatory takes space at the expense of some of that in your garden. In contrast it could make that part of your garden more useful.

Once built a conservatory will need furnishing and heating, though it can help to improve the heat retaining properties where it is built of course. We'd advise carpeting rather than a vinyl or wooden floor if young children or elderly people are to use it to prevent injury by slipping.

A conservatory can be unbelievably hot in the summer and heat the adjoining room too, so a south facing wall should be avoided if possible, unless of course there is natural shade from nearby trees etc. You could though fit blinds, or invest in air conditioning.

For these reasons although the conservatory is an addition to the house space it will not be used unless you budget for the extra cash need to furnish it, heat it, cool it and make it safe for all to use.

So, is it worth while?

We think so, if you make the right decisions when you buy. Try to find a reputable firm and ask of them the questions you'll find on this website, if the company you choose to quote doesn't bring up the subject themselves.

Literally thousands, but you must remember that some DIY conservatories may not have the same specifications as a company who only supplies and fits. Remember you get what you pay for. Our advice is if possible purchase the highest specification you can afford, as this will service you well.

You can purchase many types of DIY conservatories from under a thousand pounds to as much as you wish, dependent on size and specification. But remember this will not include the base or base materials and this should be added in when budgeting for your conservatory.

Q 1. Do I need planning permission?

In England and Wales you will not usually require planning permission, provided you do not exceed the permitted development limit for your property (which is 50-70 cubic metres, depending on where you live). Notable exceptions to the above are listed buildings and conservation areas. Please note that if your property has been extended in the past - you will have used up some or perhaps all of your "permitted development" area and may need permission. Its also worth noting that occasionally "permitted development" rights may be withdrawn from a property and any extension however small needs planning. If in doubt check.



Q 2. Do I need Building Regulation approval?

Generally speaking conservatories/sunrooms on residential property are exempted under Building Regulations. (England and Wales) Below are some of the Exemption Criteria - under the Building Regulations 1991 (as amended). These criteria must be met for a conservatory extension to be classified as exempt:

a) The extension has a completely transparent or translucent roof.

b) The extension walls are substantially glazed. (Should not have more than 25 % of its wall area as brickwork)

c) The extension has a floor area not exceeding 30m squared.

d) The extension is sited at ground level.

e) The extension is permanently separated from the remainder of the property
by means of a door.

f) Any radiator within the conservatory is controllable. (If fixed heating installations are proposed, they should have their own separate temperature and on/off controls).

g) The glazing satisfies the requirements of part N, Schedule 1 (toughened/safety glass).

h) The extension does not contain any drainage facilities (i.e. sink, WC, or washing machine).



Q 3. What is the best option - toughened glass or laminated glass? What is the difference? I have a child - am I right in saying that toughened glass is more dangerous if smashed? Is one more secure than the other?

Both Toughened and Laminated glasses are forms of "safety" glass. People often assume that toughened glass is some form of EXTRA STRONG glass - perhaps a little like "bullet proof glass". However in our opinion "break safely glass" would be a better description of toughened glass. Sure it is quite difficult to break - but not impossible. When it does break it will break into very small sections. These small sections may, if you are unlucky, give you some scratches or minor cuts but will not pose the danger created by large glass shards when "normal" float glass breaks. Toughened glass is the most widely specified safety glass in conservatory construction. Laminated glass will, when hit with force "crack". However it is unlikely to smash. Being very difficult to break means that it can be dangerous in any situation where it is likely you may need to break the glass in order to escape (such as a fire). This is of course an advantage if security is a major consideration. Laminated glass is also "thicker" - usually 6.4 mm - and as such will offer better insulation. However this thicker glass is also "heavier" which will in turn mean greater "wear and tear" on opening windows / doors. It is also more expensive than toughened glass. This is probably one of the reasons it's not so widely specified in conservatory construction. (Although in our opinion it is a perfectly good alternative for conservatory glazing.)



Q 4. At the rear of our house there are two inspection covers, which not only serve our house but the other people in our close. The question is, can we put a conservatory over these inspection covers and will we have to get planning permission to do so?

Lots of people do place conservatories over inspection chambers (manholes) and therefore avoid moving them. To do so you will need to use double-sealed manhole covers. (To stop that smell!) You also need to realize that there may be occasions when either you or your neighbours will want to access the manhole. Whilst this may be rare you should be aware of this potential inconvenience of lifting floorboards, carpets etc. You will not need planning permission in England/Wales for this specific issue. However you will need Building Regulation approval if you decide to move the position of the inspection chamber. You may also need to check local Bylaws and restrictive covenants in your property deeds.



Q 5. What are the differences between North, South, East and West facing conservatories? What are the usual traits of conservatories with these aspects and what are the recommendations?

North Facing - Coldest - least sun. Less likely to need blinds in roof - especially if you use tinted opal polycarbonate. Strongly recommend use of Pilkington K Glass (or other form of Low E glass) in frames for extra insulation. Will need heating - especially in the winter and evenings. Please note that with bronze tinted polycarbonate the tint reduces the amount of light that can enter the room your conservatory is attached to. This results in a darker room - often requiring lights on during the day! South Facing - Hot - Very hot - so essential to have adequate ventilation. Go for plenty of opening windows and roof vents. Will almost certainly require blinds in the roof. You may also consider anti-sun glass (tinted) in the roof. Other options include air conditioning. East Facing - similar to north facing. You have the morning sun and conservatories in this location make great breakfast rooms. West Facing - similar to south facing. However you do have the benefit of evening sun. Wonderful to relax in at the end of the day. As a generalisation we do recommend Pilkington "K" glass/ Low E glass in all conservatories - no matter the location. It's just more important in north facing Locations. Additionally if you use Polycarbonate - go with 25mm instead of 16 mm.



Q 6. I have a conservatory supposedly made with Pilkington K glass. I am unsure about this. How can I tell?

The best way to tell is to use a coating detector. This is a unit which manufacturers and installers should have available. A detector costs about £60 and it's quite easy to use. You simply press it against the glass with the "K" installed and it either turns a red or green light on to confirm installation. A detector can usually be bought from specialist glass merchants or glass wholesalers. Frankly it is rare to use a detector as the glass will usually arrive on site with Pilkington K Glass "stickers" on the sealed units. These "stickers" also tell the installer which side of the glass unit should face inwards. Some installers will give you the "stickers" as proof (this we recommend). We suggest they are kept safe and given to any new owners of your property as proof also. Sometimes you can visually detect the K coating but this is more difficult. We quote below what Pilkington themselves have to say...." Pilkington K Glass has high light transmission and appears virtually the same as clear float glass. However, in rare instances of strong oblique lighting, the coating may be seen as a transparent film. This is simply a transient visual effect, which can be considered positive evidence of the coated surface being present. Further evidence of the coating's presence is through the very minor effect it has on white light transmission. This effect is so small as to be generally unnoticeable However, when a light coloured object or material is in close proximity to the glazing, dependent on local circumstances and conditions, a slight darkening can be noted."



Q 7. Is it better to have the UVPC frames reinforced with galvanized steel or aluminium? One conservatory salesman told me today that galvanized was better because it has been proved that upvc causes aluminium to corrode - crumble after 10 to 15 years. I have been told that galvanized can rust at the cut ends. What is your view please?

Both Galvanized Steel and Aluminium are perfectly good materials for frame reinforcement. We would not say there is much to choose between either material. Some of the best and most respected names in the industry use these materials in approximately equal measure. Unfortunately "salespeople" will on occasions exaggerate potential problems as they try to persuade you to choose their company over another. We have never heard of the problem referred to by the salesperson that visited you. It is true that when you drill into galvanised steel some of the galvanized "coating" will be removed. Sometimes the "swarf" created does rust because the coating has been removed. (The evidence of rust soon disappears.) This is considered perfectly normal and it's a complete exaggeration to suggest that the whole galvanized steel reinforcement will suddenly deteriorate and rust also. We suggest, make your choice based on the calibre of the company and your belief that they will be around to honour their guarantees in the future. Most companies (including the not so great ones) offer perfectly good products with optional extras such as Pilkington K Glass and better security locking. Base the majority of your "decision" on this aspect of the buying equation.



Q 8. I have recently had a 8ft x 6ft all white PVC-U Lean-to conservatory built to the rear of my house. I intend to use it as a study. It is built on a dwarf wall concrete base. It suffers from condensation on roof supports and floor level joints. I am using a fully controllable oil filled radiator for heat, as main wall, not sufficient for a radiator. Could you please offer some help to my problem?

The good news is that your levels of condensation are likely to reduce as the "building works" dry out. It is not uncommon for conservatories to take as much as 6 - 12 months to dry out once built. During this period condensation will be particularly bad. However there is no guarantee that you will not have condensation after this period - especially if you have "only" used normal double-glazing and 16 mm polycarbonate. Our best suggestion is to install a dehumidifier (you can hire this) for a few weeks - this will remove a lot of the moisture. Also continue to vent the conservatory - a lot of people keep the windows closed believing this will help - it is far better to let the air circulate. You may also find it beneficial to install "trickle vents" in your framework - which allows you to have some ventilation without opening your windows. Trickle vents are available from most double glazing suppliers at £15 - £20 each. We recommend at least 25 mm polycarbonate in the roof and Pilkington "K" glass (low E ) for the frames in conservatories. This gives some of the best levels of insulation and helps reduce the risk of condensation.


Q 9. Tell me what type of other furniture can I use in my sunroom - we now only have a patio table and chairs, but we are going to be using this room year around so we want to be comfortable.

Wicker is the natural choice for conservatories and sunrooms. Being a natural product you can leave it untreated if you wish or paint to suit your colour scheme. It is also both strong and lightweight. Wrought iron chairs and tables are also popular - often combined with glass or slate tops. The most important consideration with all materials used is - how well will they perform in the sun and heat? I suggest you ask the retailer who supplies for specific advice on this - you don't want to find you have a problem with fading in the bright sun. For a bit of colour you may like to add some soft furnishings such as throws, rugs or cushions. We like to brighten things up with florals or chintzes. Another thing you could add are window treatments such as painted shutters and sun blinds.

A conservatory is like a room without a roof, allowing you to enjoy everyday living in a new light.

Of course, a conservatory is a bright, airy environment, but did you realise that the adjoining room in your home will also benefit from extra light? This effect can be maximised by choosing a conservatory featuring a glass roof such as the one shown on this page. This will allow the maximum amount of light into your home, adding to the sense of space.

Firstly what do you require the conservatory for? Perhaps a dining room where you may wish to consider a wide conservatory of an approximate size say 4 m x 3.8 m so you can place a table across the conservatory and enjoy the garden views when entertaining, or something smaller say 3 m x 3.5 m with some comfortable conservatory cane furniture to relax to read the Sunday papers and having an afternoon nap.

Marking out the outside of your conservatory is always a very good idea so you can see how big it will be. Set out this area with garden canes or string lines, then put some garden furniture in this area to represent your proposed furniture layout, this should give you some idea of how big the conservatory will need to be and you can see how much garden it will take up. This will help you decide on how big your conservatory will need to be. Also it will help you deciding on your patio and landscaping arrangements.

As conservatories become more and more popular, not only as a beautiful light-filled room to relax in but also as an investment which can add significant value to your home, we outline why conservatories are becoming “hot property.”

A conservatory can be an invaluable improvement to your home, enhancing the quality of your lifestyle and allowing you to explore a whole new way of living. By creating an extra room which can be used all year round, a conservatory brings the outdoors indoors, offering a whole new perspective to your garden and exterior surroundings.

Extremely flexible and versatile, Prior Conservatories enable you to design a conservatory to suit your lifestyle. Whether it is an extension to your kitchen for entertaining, a dining room to provide the perfect setting for a dinner party, a light airy study or even an office for those who work from home, a conservatory is a stylish and elegant way to add more space and flexibility to your home.

Adding a conservatory to your home provides an additional room to enjoy with family and friends

In today's overcrowded world, light and space are precious and yet minimal in many of our homes.

Adding a conservatory onto your home immediately offers the extra room, light and space you have always dreamed of, as well as being both practical and enjoyable.

A conservatory will provide a versatile space that can be used in so many ways and can also be the least expensive and easiest way of adding space to your home. Incredibly versatile, a conservatory can be anything you want it to be - create a relaxing living area where you can shut off from the hustle and bustle of family life; a dining room to entertain friends and family; a play area for the children; a private home office or even a luxury kitchen.

And don't forget the outdoors - a conservatory can also allow you to get the most out your garden. Even on a cold day you can still enjoy being closer to nature, extending your summer throughout the year. With a conservatory, the possibilities are endless.

DIY Conservatory Styles
Prior Conservatories are suppliers and manufacturers of many DIY conservatory styles. All our conservatories are made-to-measure to your exact specifications and come complete with a base plan and full assembly instructions.

DIY Prior Conservatories

 Conservatory DIY Tips

·         Prepare yourself well and do your homework. Research which conservatory you want by having a look around on the Internet and your local conservatory suppliers.

·         Make the conservatory floor height the same as the floors in your home.

·         While making a plan, add sufficient funding for extras such as skip hire, drainage pipes and paving.

·         Don't get overexcited and build your dwarf wall too high. You won't be able to enjoy the view to the garden anymore! We recommend a standard 600mm high wall.

·         Make sure you have the right tools for the job!

·         Get help from friends who know parts of the job, like concreting or plumbing. And hire professional help when you really need it.

·         Don't skimp on finishes you won't see, like cavity insulation and foundation. It will catch up with you in the long run.

Maintenance Tips

·         Use a silicone lubricant to lubricate squeaky hinges.

·         Using washing up liquid when washing your windows will degrade the sealant so DON'T DO IT!

·         Don't use abrasive cleaners on woodgrain PVCu conservatories.

·         Aluminium polish bought at motor shops can be used as a cleaner on silver aluminium conservatories.